Wednesday, August 7, 2013

Colca canyon and all things disgusting

Howdy guys!

Time for another rip-roaring, adventure-packed weekend with the Meggses.  This time, at Colca Canyon, the second deepest canyon in the world, only surpassed by the Cotahuasi or however you spell it.  It is twice as deep as the Grand Canyon...so getting too close to the edge can be a little on the intimidating side.  Although beautiful, this trip was another exhausting, fast-like-lightening trip.  So, it'll be a short description.


Friday night we flew into Arequipa, a city in the mountains. Saturday morning, we work up at 3 AM for a bus to drive us five hours (!) to Cabanaconde, a remote mountain town that could only be described as "the real Peru".  The inhabitants still dressed in traditional clothing, which is colorful and lovely to see.  Wifi is not around and the main form of entertainment is playing volleyball in the street, which doesn't get interrupted a lot due to the lack of cars.  Horseback is still the main form of transport around town.  Yet, everyone was kindly in directing us where to go to see things.  I mean, they didn't have many signs to begin with, so I'm sure this is the norm for them.

The first thing we saw on our ride (and I think the only thing...we were tired) was the point Cruz del Condor.  Here, you can see condors on their flight before they go hunting for food for their babies in the nests.  Condors look like terrifying, flying turkeys, but they are quite majestic.




Look at that face.  Turkey.  Ugly turkey.



When we finally made it to the town, our hostel had to give us a room in the neighboring hotel because an earthquake a few weeks back had made the second floor inhospitable and probably not very safe for us to sleep.  So, we got an upgrade for the same price.  Neat.

After settling in, we decided to go for a look at the canyon, and maybe do some hiking.  This is how I describe the walk to try to just get to the canyon:


Poopy

We had to walk through farmland and tons of crap ridden, muddy "trails", just to get to the starting point.  It was gross and I did not approve.  Paul just laughed and said how I wouldn't last one second on the farm.  Then I proceeded to throw the poo at him.  Kidding at that last part.  I would've spewed.  

We get to the canyon and find a "guard" just sitting there.  Unfortunately, we forgot our passes into the canyon and he was being most aggravating.  However, we did convince him just to let us have a look...for a tip of 5 soles.  Peru is great and I understand how poor it is, but this demand for tips is ridiculous.  Granted, it cost us $1 and some, but sometimes just hearing it grates on the nerves.  Whatever.  The canyon was splendid.








It's almost surreal, looking at it.  It almost looks painted, as if we are just standing at a backdrop.  Lovely.

We then decided, ok, since hiking into and out of the canyon is something we can't do, let's just do another trail to see the neighboring dormant volcanos and some Incan ruins.  Our hostel's guide gave us directions that were just awful.  We started walking around and got lost in this one road, goat town a lot more than we care to admit.  Pretty soon, we just gave up and went to a wonderful overlook that was much easier to access.


My little piggy friends!  I started snorting to talk to them...and they loved it!  At least, I'm going to say they did.  They ran to me and it was so cute.


On our way to the look out, there's a bull fighting ring.  I'm a bull.


Hiking



Oh look!  Paul's here too.


Crazy bird that was doing weird things


Sweet bear.

That night, we learned to play a couple of games with a couple of girls from our earlier bus ride at dinner.  Then, we decided to see what the stars looked like, as lights were so few here.  This was one of my favorite parts.  The stars were dazzling and it really humbled us as to how small we are compared to the universe.  You could even see the Milky Way.  Also, remember, we are looking at a different set of stars, since we are in the southern hemisphere.  In the bottom picture, we were weirded out because there wasn't a cross there earlier...later we figured out it was an electricity pole. 



Then, I was pretty sure I saw an axe murderer because there was a guy with a flashlight on a neighboring ridge and I got skittish and told Paul we had to scoot.  Paul pointed out later that it was just a house without electricity.  But I knew better.  Flashlights on a ridge= murder.

The next day, we had to return to Arequipa via bus but we did get to see a few more things before we left.




Ridges made by the Incans


We drove through this.  There was a longer one that at points the driver would shut off the headlights.  Terrifying is the only word for those moments.


Then, the bus stopped for an hour to the hot springs.  These were better kept than at Machu Picchu.  However, we weren't interested in getting into hot springs when it was hot outside.  So, we walked about.



This is where we saw the tons of neighboring volcanos.  These rocks were actually set up by the Incans so that when they went on new walks to discover new places, they had a way back home.  Although, I don't know how they knew which rock pile was their's.  







Mismi volcano-the reason why Arequipa is called the White City, is because of all the volcanic white rock that they used to build the city. 


And now, the elusive vicuna.  They are little camelids that are indigenous to this area.


That evening before the flight home, we ate at Crepisimo, which was delicious.  For less than $20, we each had our own crepes and then a dessert crepe.  Wonderful and I recommend it, even though it's French.  Sometimes, we need variety.  

I will have to say, Paul and I are now crying "uncle".  Since the end of May, we have been on the go nonstop, seeing, traveling, tasting, exploring...it's exhausting.  Although we love our adventures, we are taking a break this week and staying in.  Our plan is to shop, sleep, eat at fabulous restaurants, and watch movies...specifically Harry Potter because I've been in the mood.  So, next week, there will be a post, but not of the adventure sort.  

In two weeks, Paul and I will be doing major travel for a week plus, which is super exciting.  But then, I leave for the US.  Which is thrilling and saddening at the same time.  But mostly thrilling since I will be starting my new master's in Theatre Education at Emerson.  I'm ready.









Friday, August 2, 2013

Machu Picchu...'nuff said

Last weekend, we went on an epic adventure to the beautiful Machu Picchu.  It is an old Incan city that sits on a mountain and it is one of the most gorgeous vistas I've ever seen in my life.

But first, the surrounds.

Paul and I flew into Cusco Friday morning, tired and feeling the big differences between there and Lima.  Altitude sickness is a real thing here, but luckily, we had some pills to help combat that.  Even with the pills though, you feel the pressure and lack of air.

We decided to take a tour from Cusco to Ollantaytambo, where we were to catch the afternoon train into Aguas Calientes, the town entrance to Machu.  We weren't expecting to, but we just thought it would be easiest, since we were so tired from the early morning.

Our first adventure was to the neighboring ruins outside of Cusco called Sacsayhuaman, or as it sounds, "Sexy Woman".  Our taxi driver took us there and we found that we would have to buy a full on tourist ticket, which was a little expensive and we were only going to see 2 ruins that day beyond this one, so, it looked a little like we weren't going to.  Then, some guy approached us, and whispered he could get us in for a tip.  All in all, it was the sketchiest thing I ever heard or saw, but we got in and we think the ticket folk are in on it too.  Otherwise, it wouldn't have been so easy.  Either way, we made it in.


Used to be a huge fortress and you only see 20% of it





Cave



Cusco

After an exciting start, we scurried to Pisaq and Ollantaytambo, with a not great lunch in Urubamba.





LLAMAS!  Although, I think these might be alpaca.






Agricultural terraces.  Incans would have their animals graze here and cultivated crops on the valley floor.  It was about maximizing space and fertile land.  That's why the Incans lived high up, where the land didn't yield crops.


These "nubs" that stick out of the temples are ways of clocking the movement of the sun.  Everyone had a little bit of gold because the sun was considered the Father and light of the world, so that gold was thought of as drop of sunlight, but not currency.  


This is the Incan "cross" of sorts.  It has the 4 cardinal points, but the center is considered Mother Earth of Pachamama.  


Ollantaytambo




If you squint and look carefully at the side of the mountain, you can sorta see a face with a nose.  On the summer solstice, the nose is lit up by the sun.


We ended our day with a train ride to Aguas Calientes.  It was absolutely breath taking.  These mountains make such an impression.



No joking here with the views.





Aguas Calientes bridge

Friday was crazy in the amount of travel (plane, bus, train).  Saturday was crazy in the OMG I CAN'T BELIEVE I CLIMBED THAT way.  We were having a difficult time in Lima getting Machu Picchu entrance tickets on Saturday, since online you can't pay with foreign credit cards and UNESCO puts a cap of 2500 people a day...but Peru doesn't really listen to that and in Aguas Calientes you can easily buy a ticket.  

Since we were able to get a ticket, we didn't want to do 2 sunrise moments with Machu, so we heard of a mountain we could climb for free, that afforded great views: Putucusi.  

Oh sure, it looks beautiful and harmless but IT'S NOT.  We were sore and tired FOR DAYS after.  And we thought Cerro Chato in Costa Rica was difficult.  

Why was it so difficult?  

It's steep


It's sweaty work and difficult





Do you see these ladders?  
The last couple pictures are the one set that's 600 ft. high.  

But it was so worth it.

We started at 4:30 AM to climb this monster so we could see the sunrise.  When we got there, it was amazing and worth every heart ache, angst, and exhaustive sigh we did the entire way up.  Such a metaphor for life.  Either way, here are those pictures:










Machu Picchu




 





Incan flag









Worth it, right?
We were completely alone like this for 3 hours (despite the weird "ghost hippie" incident we had...).  Amazing.

We later made it to Machu and saw loads of llamas, their natural lawnmowers.







My face says it all


What is this?  Sqrabbit?  



That night, to soothe our aching muscles, we thought, let's go to the hot springs!  Warning: these are not Costa Rica's hot springs.  In fact, all it turned out to be were tiny swimming pool like things that were brown and filled to the brim with other dirty gross people.  And the locals were swimming under!  Putting their faces in!  Disgusting.  No pictures and be grateful for that.

Next morning, we did the sunrise scramble, where everyone and their mother tries to get on the earliest bus possible, so they can watch the sunrise on Machu.  Of course, it was a nut house.  People were trying to skip the lines on the bus (which weren't that bad since there were so many buses).  Sometimes, shoving ensued.  All the things that make Paul and I get irritable.  

Yet, apparently, no one decided to go to the Sun Gate.  The only people who happened to be near us were the folk coming up from the Inka Trail.  We found a little overhang and stayed there for hours.  It was beyond lovely, and we got to enjoy this alone.  Our favorite thing.






Looks like a little play model





M for Meggs




Me at the Sun Gate


Llama, llama, llama



Llama spirit guide


2 of them!





Here, we took a nap.

Words fail sometimes during these posts, but especially on this one.  We loved every tiring moment of this trip, and if it were up to me, I wouldn't change a thing.  Machu Picchu can be viewed as super touristy, but there are moments when you can just sit or lay on a terrace, staring at this structure, and marvel at how beautiful this world is.  And how fortunate Paul and I are to see such things while we are so young.  We are so lucky.  And lucky to have each other.  

Now, we are leaving for a canyon, so, we shall update soon.  The picture link is on the tab up top next to the home tab.  These pictures aren't even close to all of them, neither would I consider them better than the others.  Take some time and peruse.  They are gorgeous photos and Paul certainly knows what he's doing.  

Much love from the bottom of the Earth!